Which is the best jasmine perfume

Jasmine perfume: flowers like shooting stars

White blossom gold or close to disgust: the scent of jasmine is just as popular in Haute Parfumerie as it is endowed with an ambivalent character.

How valuable and expensive the jasmine flower is to the French can already be seen from the fact that the 66th wedding anniversary is considered "noces de jasmin", the jasmine wedding: at least in this typology, jasmine is more valuable than gold and diamond. In Haute Parfumerie the star-shaped flower is really almost outweighed by precious metal: A small bottle of pure perfume may contain a few thousand flowers harvested at daybreak. In the case of "Joy", for example, the first house fragrance by Jean Patou, which was launched in 1930 and then called "Most expensive perfume in the world" was advertised.

Jasmine has always played a prominent role in what is probably the most famous perfume of all time, "N ° 5" by Chanel. The Grandiflorum variant processed here (the second significant perfume in the world is the Arabic jasmine or jasmine sambac) comes from, at least in the high concentrated "Extrait de Parfum" from "N ° 5", from Grasse, from one of the few remaining local producers.

Ambivalent nature. Like other white flowers, natural jasmine also contains special molecules that oscillate between fragrance and disgust: so-called indoles are related to other organic compounds that occur in the context of faeces and putrefaction. Even though they are only found in very low concentrations in jasmine, for example, indoles can create an "animalistic", one could also say wicked and in any case be particularly fascinating in traditional (French) perfumery. Like a kitchen that was once indispensable in the kitchen Hautgout has gradually become uncommon, everything extremely animal or complex had to gradually take a backseat when it came to the composition of the fragrance. Synthesized jasmine variants, such as Hedion, which was launched by Firmenich in 1958 and is very common today, come without this connotation of the slightly dirty which would be considered completely unacceptable, especially in the American perfumery.

The number of floral compositions influenced by jasmine is greater than ever: the classics that are still being sold are regularly joined by new perfumes that pay homage to the precious star blossom. "Jasmin Rouge" by Tom Ford, launched seven years ago, has what it takes to become a classic and serves a jasmine-sambac note refined with a spicy character. The same applies to the "Jasmin Noir" composition launched ten years ago from Bulgari, which convinces as particularly ripe and not sticky sweetness.

With and without corners. The two LVMH perfumers Jacques Cavallier Belletrud and François Demachy work side by side in Grasse. While Belletrud did not include an explicit jasmine scent in his first collection for Louis Vuitton, the floral "Apogée" as a superficial lily of the valley scent is also a white flower affair with traces of jasmine. Demachy, on the other hand, only expanded the exclusive line of the "Collection privée" this year with one thanks perceptible apricot notes very fruity and, according to the name, angelic "Jasmin des Anges". The composition that Frédéric Malle dared to present in collaboration with fashion designer Alber Elbaz is wonderfully nostalgic: "Superstitious", as a floral aldehyde explosion, is reminiscent of an infinitely exaggerated "N ° 5 "or - this is less surprising, Alber Elbaz was Lanvin's house designer for a long time -" Arpège "by Jeanne Lanvin.

A beautiful interplay of various flowers (in addition to jasmine rose, angelica, tuberose) is "Flowerhead" by Byredo, which may be lacking a bit of corners and edges. The combination of jasmine with warming marigold, just by Jo Malone as, is, however, beautifully velvety "Jasmine Sambac & Marigold" launched. And perhaps the most beautiful jasmine of this year, at the same time one of the most successful jasmine compositions for a long time, is "Udaipur" by Etro: The Italian fashion house is celebrating its Indian-inspired DNA in its 50th anniversary year and treats itself to a full-bodied jasmine sambac on this occasion. The festivals should really be celebrated as they come.

Perfumes in the picture

Left to right:

  • Flowerhead by Byredo (50 ml for 110 €).
  • Jasmine Rouge by Tom Ford (50 ml for 185 €).
  • Jasmine des Anges by Christian Dior (only in Dior boutiques, 125 ml for 198 €).
  • Apogée by Louis Vuitton (only in Louis Vuitton boutiques, 100 ml for 210 €).
  • Jasmine Noir from Bulgari (50 ml for 97 €).
  • N ° 5 Eau de Parfum Red by Chanel (limited edition, 100 ml for 150 €).
  • Jasmine Sambac & Marigold by Jo Malone (only at Douglas, 50 ml for 88 €).
  • Superstitious by Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle (100 ml for 275 €).
  • Udaipur from Etro (100 ml for 160 €).