How to cut a brick by hand
Split masonry bricks?
I want to put bricks on an outside wall. Whole bricks are too thick because of the context. If I could cut it in half, it would work. How do you do it economically?
I'm assuming old bricks that I still have to get hold of. The new facing bricks are brutally hard.
... rent a diamond stone cutting machine that runs in water. Then it's almost like cutting butter.
I still have that part to sell.
Greetings from Schönebeck
... the whole thing should not be plastered, it can easily happen to you that your not yet procured bricks could prove to be insufficiently frost-resistant.
Since flatter brick formats can certainly be found again, I consider your project to be questionable and would advise you to let off steam elsewhere on the property.
Enjoy your work
In order to wall up old bricks neatly in the framework, we also had to cut bricks. An old circular saw was available and the circular saw blade was replaced by a diamond disc. Goes well, but there is a bit of dust. At some point the saw gave up because of the dust. But an old engine that has succeeded it now does the same job.
We also laid old beaver tails (clay) as the flooring, they really did a job and it worked well
Hold a solution when a proper stone cutter is not available.
In any case, when using old bricks, it should be checked whether, which and how much salts are stored in the bricks.
Otherwise it could look like this one day.
Greetings from Schönebeck
You split masonry bricks up to about Mz 150 with a mason's hammer; it requires a little practice. Precise cuts are only possible with the stone cutter.
If you cut vertically perforated bricks, you can also use a band saw.
Thanks for the hints!
Of course you can't take every stone. I would look for something that was once built in as fair-faced masonry.
Does anyone know what people are doing today with the many ordinary bricks that are being sold everywhere as old? Most of them are certainly not suitable as fair-faced masonry.
If you z. If, for example, you think of the large manor barns in the north or similar buildings from the second imperial era, then only the outermost stone will have the quality of the facing wall and most of the wall cannot be used for it?
Exactly the bricks ...
... but are also harder because they burn higher. And probably not cheaper than new, flatter clinker bricks that could be installed without all the fuss.
No thin format
The bricks should not be flatter, but narrower. That means they should have a wall thickness of almost 6 cm.
Is there something like that?
"Is that also colorful"?
Since we are probably going to do something similar: Are there such narrow stones also in "colored"? So not uniform-new-build-like-red, but different as with old clinker bricks? I'm happy to receive tips on how to get them :-)
Everything is there, some of the parts are then produced separately, but that costs.
In such cases I would always take old stones and cut them open.
Just looks more alive.
Greetings from Schönebeck
Photo shows new masonry made of stones from a demolition without further cleaning.
stick to the eighth meter,
with a wall of 6 cm, the cardboard is more something for the tiler than for the bricklayer, how high is the whole thing, can you include it?
Height is only half a meter. It's about a plinth of a modern house, where (as usual) it jumps back strongly. That looks impossible.
Better to stay away from this type of disguise.
The stones will freeze off in a few years and the base area will be wet.
Well, Herr Böttcher, what do you do?
The stones should rest on a suitable concrete "foundation" and be placed in front of the wall with a mortar joint. That can't be so wrong, can it?
Your base cladding is in the splash water area.
No mortar joint is watertight, the joints and the stones will freeze. In summer there is a build-up of moisture behind them, through the cracks considerable amounts of water are drawn through the joints by capillary action, but do not dry out again very poorly. If you use frost-proof, but highly capillary solid bricks, you make this effect even worse. I don't even want to begin with the possible salt content of old bricks.
Depending on the nature of the current plinth, it will also be affected by moisture, as it can no longer dry off.
learning by thoing
basically I share with the current information, the statements of Mr. Böttcher, you usually only have splash water areas at the
Weather side and on paved ground at the connection,
take a look at where water is splashing, comes because of
Eaves at all water to the base, the board
Mortar is basically denser than the vapor-permeable bricks,
there it will drown or there will be beautiful salt efflorescence, with a hydrophobization on the masonry it will work for some time, if water really gets to the base, you should be aware that it has to be maintained, estimated service life with your
Execution approx. 3 - 5 years, good work, greetings Martin
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